Rajesh’s misconception was the same as that of the social influencer who recently generated ripples by declaring on X that Goa had lost its premier position as a tourist destination.(File photo)
Nov 20, 2024 10:50 IST First published on: Nov 20, 2024 at 10:49 IST
My Goa neighbour and village taxi driver, Rajesh, while picking me up from the airport, frequently asked anxiously whether there were any tourists on the flight. He would be crestfallen when I usually shook my head. In fact, there were plenty of tourists travelling but I knew his mindset; he meant foreigners, not “desis”. I finally argued him out of his misconception. “Who brings in more revenue to Goa?”, I quizzed. After much cogitation, he conceded grudgingly that the overbearing visitor from north India is financially a better bargain. The fair-skinned backpacker can nurse one or two cans of beer for hours in a bar, but the free-spending Delhi visitors will down three pegs of malt whiskey in half the time. Rajesh’s misconception was the same as that of the social influencer who recently generated ripples by declaring on X that Goa had lost its premier position as a tourist destination. He, too, assumed the state’s tourism industry depends on the footfall of foreigners, when in reality the Indian tourist fuels Goa’s economy.
The internet influencer has buttressed his claim by citing dodgy figures taken from a Chinese website, according to Goa’s tourism minister Rohan Khaunte, who promptly filed a police case against him. According to the state’s official figures, in 2019, there were 9 lakh foreign tourists and in 2023, the numbers were down to 4.5 lakh, whereas the 8 million Indian tourists last year were about the same number as pre-pandemic levels. Still, the influencer‘s warning that unnaturally high airfares, steep hotel rates and an extortionist taxi mafia have indeed frightened away some tourists to cheaper beach destinations, such as Sri Lanka and the Far East, is valid.
The pattern of foreign travellers to this lush, coastal former Portuguese colony has changed over the years. A smattering of upmarket Western travellers post-Portuguese rule were replaced by hoards of hippies and British blue-collar workers who found Goa an ideal bohemian destination thanks to easily accessible drugs, a free and easy lifestyle and charter flights. But as Goa upped its prices, the Brits abandoned it. The vacuum was filled largely by Russians and Israelis, who banded together with their fellow countrymen in exclusive enclaves and shacks, where even the signboards and menu cards cater to the visitor’s language. But since both countries are presently enmeshed in conflicts, Goa tourism can hardly be blamed if their numbers have fallen.
That the Goa service sector has outpriced itself and not bothered to remain competitive with comparable international tourist destinations is undeniable. While Thailand, for example, upped its game by offering scuba diving, snorkelling and scenic ropeways, laidback Goa is content to rely on its history, churches, beaches and lush scenery. “Susegad” , the relaxed, contented way of life that symbolises Goa, described as South Asia’s Latin quarters, is the state’s USP. Khaunte notes proudly that there is a Goa tourism “beyond beaches.” He emphasises the cultural and culinary aspects, discreetly avoiding mentioning the state’s growing Las Vegas-style reputation – casinos, bars, dance clubs and rocking music festivals.
Goan politicians seldom boast of another booming industry, which has sprouted in the last few years, giving a major boost to the state’s economy. Ironically, the pandemic which ruined the tourism industry, also opened India’s eyes to Goa’s potential as an ideal location for either a primary or secondary home. With Covid norms of working from home in place, many young professionals relocated from congested, costly cities to Goa, where scenic and more spacious accommodation was available at affordable prices and network connectivity is much improved. According to gung-ho real estate developers, land prices in some villages in north Goa close to the new Mopa airport have shot up by over 100 per cent in the last three years.
Land developers from all over India have descended on Goa, working in partnership with the state’s powerful village panchayats. Even Delhi’s DLF has plans for uber luxury villas, priced between Rs 35 and Rs 50 crore, in picturesque Reis Magos overlooking the Mandovi river. In Assagao village, nicknamed Delhi’s Greater Kailash extension, land prices hover around Rs 1,20,000 per square metre, among the highest in the state. The plush holiday homes are largely owned by wealthy Delhites, with a preponderance of top lawyers and businessmen, who can afford to make multiple trips. The presence of so many north Indians is irksome not just to native Goans, who while appreciating their lavish spending habits are critical of their sometimes loud and brash behaviour, but also to a few Mumbaikars. Goa borders Maharashtra and Mumbaikars holidaying here since childhood are sore that they missed the bus in purchasing property when it was affordable.
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A moot point is where the vacant land for the flood of new construction activity is to come from. Goa’s strict zoning laws make it technically impossible to convert green zone paddy fields and forest land into residential and commercial spaces. A clue lies in a contentious amendment to the Town and Country Act passed last year. The tweak in the Act authorises the Town Country Planning (TCP) department to nullify court orders against any changes in zoning laws in a few coveted districts in north Goa. The state’s very active and vigilant civil society has rushed to the high court to overturn the amendment. The court has not granted a stay while it hears the case.
Activist Claude Alvares, who petitioned the court, estimates that till now the land use of at least 22 lakh square metres has been altered. Interestingly, Goa’s TCP minister Vishwajit Rane wears two hats, he is also the forest minister. Similarly, Environment Minister Aleixo Sequeira holds the law portfolio. The media points out that the conflict of interest runs even deeper with some ministers personally benefitting from changed land use.
The writer is consulting editor, The Indian Express
