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Bhadra Tiger Reserve: A paradise for scientists, tourists and photographers

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The sun is just about to rise as the staff of the Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary office at Lakkavali keep the vehicles ready for the morning safari. One member is busy issuing tickets after taking the fixed fee, while others are instructing the visitors to get into the vehicles meant for safari.

The chorus of the birds, the fragrance of flowers, and the dust rising from the rough lane welcome the guests to the forest. Anticipating sighting of a leopard, if not a tiger, the travellers maintain silence. Eyes are busy scanning every movement in the bushes and the rustle of the leaves.

Suddenly, the driver-cum-guide raises his hand, pointing his fingers to a shrub, and whispers, “Two leopards.” Even as all the tourists in the vehicle strain to catch a glimpse, the animals disappear in the greens. “Oh, I missed it,” says a man with a high-end camera.

Bhadra reservoir backwater in Bhadra Tiger Reserve in Chikkamagaluru district.

Bhadra reservoir backwater in Bhadra Tiger Reserve in Chikkamagaluru district. | Photo Credit: Sathish G.T.

The two-and-a-half-hour journey in the sanctuary is marked by such “misses”, and occasionally the animals recognise the visitors and honour their presence. With a few clicks, the lensmen thank the creature for a “good pose.” There are days when many visitors return without sighting any wild animals, except for peacocks and spotted deer, which are a dime a dozen.

Since the schools declared holidays after the annual examinations, the number of people visiting the Tiger Reserve for safari has gone up. The tourists are advised to wear forest-friendly clothing during the safari. They are asked to maintain silence so that they can hear, listen to the sounds of nature, and observe birds, animals. The Forest Department does not encourage tourists to pick up anything from the forest floor as a souvenir or play music. The visitors are not allowed to disturb animals.

Elephants in Bhadra Tiger Reserve of Chikkamagaluru district.

Elephants in Bhadra Tiger Reserve of Chikkamagaluru district. | Photo Credit: H.S. Shivakumar

History of the sanctury

The Bhadra Tiger Reserve has a long history. For centuries it remained undisturbed. The Forest Department has recorded its history with documents available. At the beginning of the 19th century, the Western Ghats were intact, with no gaps. A formal department for the conservation of forests was set up by the Mysuru rulers in 1864. By the end of the 19th century, forest policy took shape.

Later in the 20th century, the systematic reservation of large areas of forest began. With the technological advances, including the steam engine, the dependence on forests increased. The rulers of the day monopolised the timber trade. The local people were kept out. The department launched plantation activities to increase the “value of forests.” There was a huge demand for railway sleepers. Besides that, there were demands for laying telephone poles, and electric poles in the forests. The Visvesvaraya Iron and Steel Limited, which was started in the 1910s, required fuel wood for its steel production. Similarly, Mysore Paper Mills was also dependent on the forests.

After Independence, the Government of Mysore declared the area of 77.45 square miles as Jagara Valley Wildlife Sanctuary in 1951. Later, by adding new forest areas, the State Government declared Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary in 1974. The total area covered is 492.30 sq kms. In 1999, the sanctuary was included in the Project Tiger area.

A crocodile in Bhadra reservoir backwaters in Bhadra Tiger Reservoir in Chikkamagaluru district.

A crocodile in Bhadra reservoir backwaters in Bhadra Tiger Reservoir in Chikkamagaluru district. | Photo Credit: H.S. Shivakumar

Sutterbugs’ delight

Among those who frequently visit the sanctuary are wildlife photographers. They spend long hours in the forests with cameras. Many of them love the place for its unique landscape and also understand the challenges of the terrain.

H.S. Shivakumar, a wildlife photographer and member of the Hiregowja Gram Panchayat in Chikkamagaluru, has spent many days capturing wildlife in Bhadra Tiger Reserve. He has captured tigers, leopards, elephants, and birds in the forests. “The terrain offers tough challenges for wildlife photographers. There are thick bushes, and it is difficult to spot the animals. Even if we notice movement of animals amidst bush, seldom do we capture them full frame,” he says. Shivakumar visits the villages on the boundaries of the sanctuary and captures photos many times.

Bhadra Reservoir backwater in Bhadra Tiger Reserve in Chikkamagaluru district. Visitors can go for boating.

Bhadra Reservoir backwater in Bhadra Tiger Reserve in Chikkamagaluru district. Visitors can go for boating. | Photo Credit: Sathish GT

There are many senior officers in the State government, who have developed wildlife photography as a hobby. Their understanding of nature and commitment to conserving forests have influenced them to take up innovative programmes.

G. Prabhu, an IAS officer, who is right now CEO of Tumakuru Zilla Panchayat, spent countless days in areas of Bhadra Tiger Reserve as part of his duty and as a wildlife photographer. Whenever he got free time when he was CEO of Chikkamagaluru ZP, he visited Muthodi, Lakkavalli, Tanigebylu areas. He had the chance to capture wildlife in the hilly ranges painted with violet and pink flowers – neelakurinji – in 2022.

Spotted deers in Bhadra Tiger Reserve in Chikkamagaluru district.

Spotted deers in Bhadra Tiger Reserve in Chikkamagaluru district. | Photo Credit: H.S. Shivakumar

Neelakurinji season

Neelakurinji, a shrub belonging to the Strobilanthes genus, flowers once every 12 years. Besides that, as an officer, he gave attention to grassland development under National Rural Employment Guarantee Act. “Chikkamagaluru is the land where seven rivers take birth, and they have been sources of water for people in three states. This fact conveys to us how important it is to conserve our forests,” he says.

The Jungle Lodges and Resorts, a State Government enterprise, runs River Tern Lodge on a hillock, located on the edge of Bhadra reservoir. The lodge has been named after river tern birds that breed on the rocks in the reservoir during the summer. Thousands of birds descend on the small island to nest. During this period, many tourists go boating and observe the birds.

“It is interesting to note that, of all the places, the river tern birds choose this place to breed. This shows its significance, and we need to conserve it. The birds visit in large numbers during the summer and go back during the monsoon. Any change in their schedule is an indication of a change in the climate,” says Prabhu.

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